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Frequently Asked Questions
Q.What is the difference between Shorty Jack Russells and Parson Russell Terriers?
A. Parson's are longer legged (12-15 in) and narrow bodied. They were bred as fox and large game hunters. They have a more intense hunting instinct and therefore require more activity. They are also climbers and bigger jumpers.
The Shorty's are 10-12 inches tall with bodies slightly longer than they are tall and they are stocky. They were bred for small game hunting, ie gophers. groundhogs etc.. They have a much calmer temperament than the parson. 

Q. Do they have any medical conditions that are a trait of this breed?
A. No breed is perfect. Every breed has some flaws. The major one is patella (slipping of the knee cap) . See our Medical Facts page for more information.

Q. What are the coat types and do they shed?
A. There are 3 coat types:
Smooth- just like it says a smooth often short coat. This coat is the biggest shedder, but has the biggest shedding in the spring.
Wire or Rough- they will have a full "beard" and rough hair throughout the body. This coat hardly sheds.
Broken- this coat is inbetween the other two types. Usually you will see a beard and some of the coat will appear smooth and some will appear rough. This coat doesn't shed as much as the smooth.

Q. How much are your puppies?
A. We are not bargain basement breeders nor are we mass producing puppy mills. We are a private breeder who only has a couple litters a year. This way the puppies receive the most loving care and attention. You will have this dog for the next 15-20 years, so you want to get a quality puppy that has been well taken care of! Our puppies are normally $1200-1500 depending on pedigree, coat type and markings. We are running a special of $800-$900. They are sold with a spay/neuter agreement unless otherwise agreed upon.  They also come with a written 3 year health guarantee and I am here for any advice or questions you may have for the life of your dog! Keep in mind that most pet stores sell puppies $850-$1000 and claim they are AKC. These puppies are usually purchased from puppy mills who keep their dogs in cages and poor conditions. More often than not these puppies have poor health, physical and mental problems that are not apparent right away. They will wind up costing you much more in the long run in vet bills. Please do not buy from a pet store! Even if you decide not to get a puppy from me, please do your homework! Do not have a puppy shipped! Make sure that you can visit the home where the puppy is raised so that you can see the living conditions. Make sure you can see and interact with the mother and hopefully father too. The parents temperament plays a big part in your puppies. If you have children, it is best to get a puppy from someone you know has raised the puppies with children. For more puppy buying tips see my Buyer Beware! page.

Q. Do you negotiate on your price?
For the most part my prices are firm. On occassion, I may sell a breeding quality puppy at a reduced rate with breeders rights. What this means is that sometimes I may have a puppy that I think would be excellent to add to my breeding program but I do not have the room to keep her or him. With breeding rights, for females, after the 2nd or 3rd heat, I have the option to mate her with a stud of my choosing with the buyer paying for stud fees and all costs of the puppies. I get to keep pick of the litter and you keep any profit.  I will also assist in helping find homes for the remaining puppies. For the males, I retain stud rights and can use him anytime I wish. You may not neuter him without my consent.

Q. When is your next litter due?
A. Cookie & Loki will be expecting pups late July putting them ready late September.

Q. Do you ship?
A. No, I do not ship under any circumstances, no exceptions. I prefer to meet the potential owners and have them meet me and my family.

Q. Are your puppies registered?
A.Yes, they are registered with NKC & soon to be EJRTCA.  They have a 3-5 generation pedigrees.

Q. Do you accept checks?
A. No, I am sorry but due to prior circumstances we only accept cash and postal money orders. We have just started to accept paypal!

Q. How do I reserve a puppy?
A.  Reservations can be a little tricky. Here is how it works:

1. If you are positive you want to be on our reservation list please fill out a puppy application. If you are not sure, please send the inquiry form to get more information.

2. After we have received the form, I will be calling you for an interview based on your answers. I strongly screen all my potencial clients.

3. If the interview is successful we have puppies available, you may select your puppy at that time and send in the $400  deposit ($200 of which is non-refundable) along with the deposit form. If no puppies are available or if you would like to wait for the next litter, then you would send in the $200 non-refundable reservation deposit Along with the reservation form. You will be placed on the list when money is received.

4. I generally take 4 reservations per litter. The first person to place the deposit gets the first pick. I send out emails to those on my list to notify them of the puppies birth and shortly after I will post pictures. The first pick gets their choice first. They may choose to pick immedietely or wait to see how the puppies develop. I will allow until the pup is 4 weeks old to choose their puppy or choose to go onto the next reservation list. Once first pick has made their decision I go onto the next person and so on. Once the puppy has been chosen another $200 is required to hold that puppy. The balance is due when the puppy is 7 weeks old. 

 There is a 3 day maximum grace period otherwise, the puppy is available for choosing by someone else and you would have to make a new selection. We do accept paypal.

Exception: The exception to the order of puppy choosng are the following:

Breeder reserves the right to first pick of every litter if they so choose.

If a client from a previous list chose to wait for the next litter, then they receive first pick from the next litter if their deposit was received earlier. 

 We do not accept checks. Cash, Postal Money order and paypal are accepted. WE DO NOT SHIP OUR PUPPIES UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!

Q. Is the deposit applied towards the purchase price?
A. Yes

Q. Can I visit the puppy?
A. Yes, our door is always may visit your puppy at any time as long as you give me 24 hours notice.We do have 5 children in addition to our Jack Russells and are often busy with sports schedules and so on. We need time to make other arrangements for transport if you visit falls on one of those days!

Q. Do you give refunds?
A. No, I do not give refunds.  In the rare case that you are unable to keep the Jack at any time, you bring it back to us per our contract .We will either find her/him a new loving, responsible home or keep her. The Jack may not be placed in any shelter or resold by you at any time. Any money we receive from the Jack goes to cover any new advertising etc we did to replace the Jack. If there is a problem with the Jack Russell that falls in the terms of our guarantee a replacement puppy is offered. Please note we have NEVER had this happen :)

Q. Do you offer future advise on the puppy?
A. Yes, I am here for the life of your puppy to offer any assistance that I can.

Q. Are Jacks good with children?
A. This can be a subject from controversy. Most places will tell you they do not reccommend Jacks for children under the age of 8. I have to say with my experience it depends on the breeder and the new family. I have raised all my Jacks with my children. They have been great with them. My kids now range from the ages of 5-18 (5 of them) and I have been doing this for 10 years. My Jacks have good temperaments which is something you want to be sure of, which means purchasing from a breeder you can visit and be able to interact with the parents and see how they are bred and raised. Also this means that you as a parent must teach your child what is acceptable treatment of the new family pet. No pulling on the head, tail or legs. How to pet properly. Make sure the pet has a place to go to get away from the child. Most important now matter how well you have trained both terrier and child, never leave them unattended. You never know who might be having a bad day! I have never personally had any issues, but I do as I say.

Q. Do they get along with cats?
A. I always get asked about raising Jacks and cats. Please remember first and foremost a Jack Russell is a hunting dog and loves to chase what it perceves as prey. This includes cats, hamsters, gerbils, rabbits etc..

A Jack can be raised as a puppy with a cat or kitten and get along fine. I would never reccommend leaving them alone together for any lenth of time. You never know what could happen. Our Petey got along fine with our cat but it would not stop him from chasing the neighbor's cat up a tree. Please keep this in mind.

Recently Inquired questions
Q. Is it ok for the puppy to chase flashlights?
A. My kids always loved to play with the dogs in this manner and found it quite amusing- until I read this. I had never thought of it like this before so I thought I would pass this on to you.

Q. Have you ever had any issues with your dogs peeing everytime you scold them or reach down to pick them up?

A. I had a couple females with this problem. It usually stems from them being frightened.Generally it a man's voice that scares them. It gets triggered from loud voices so be sure to correct tone, grabbing at them from a dominant position- best to call them sweetly, or discipline- if they misbehave best to calmly convince them to go to their crate. Also helps if they have been crated to take them out before getting excited with them. Here is more info :

Q. Do you have any advise on destructive chewing?

A. I could go on and on about this but i think this link has some of the best advice :

Q. What advice do you have on housebreaking?

A. I get asked about this a lot. The best way I have found to start your training is using puppy pads. You want to start out by confining the puppy to no more than 2 rooms, this way you can control it better. Start by placing several pads through out the room or rooms. Gradually remove some of the pads and move them closer to the door. Soon you should have it to where you have only the one pad by the door. Also, do not free feed. This means leaving the food out for them to eat at their leisure. Feed them 2-3 times a day. Take them out 30 minutes after each feeding and walk them until they have a chance to eliminate. Give them a reward. Also take them out first thing in the morning, last before bed and everytime they wake from a nap. Also, during this time, I suggest not giving them treats for anything except when they go outside this will help them concentrate on one behaviour at a time. For more info and advice you can go here:

Q. How should I handle the puppies nipping/biting?

A. Nipping and biting is how a puppy explores and learns it's boundaries. When you allow a puppy to nip or bite at you, or your clothes, without an appropriate correction or consequences, you are actually teaching this youngster that it is acceptable behavior. Not a good idea in the long run!

I have found two types of corrections that work well for me. I don't recommend hitting a puppy or holding a puppy's mouth closed for biting, rather, putting your hand OVER their muzzle and just pushing her lips into the teeth, if they exert pressure downward, they only end up biting themselves. This does two things: it gives them a correction, and simulates another dog putting it's mouth over their muzzle. This mimics a common sign of dominance among canines, allowing you to reemphasize your dominance over them! I also will use a little pinch on the lip as a correction. With both corrections, I give a verbal correction "No bite" and when they stop, I praise them. With perseverance and patience, you will eventually be able to give only a verbal correction and have them stop. With puppies, it is often a good idea to quickly distract them with an appropriate chew toy so they don't go right back to "finger attack" mode!

If the corrections don't seem to work, then give time out, because they are either too wound up or too tired and need a nap! It might seem endless, but keep up the corrections you need to win this battle! Be persistent and they'll soon learn that nipping isn't such a fun game after all!
Courtesy of I myself have tried these methods and they work VERY well.

Q. I am thinking about getting another Jack. What are your thoughts on this?

A. If you are ready to add another Jack into your family the best is to get opposite sex. This situation usually works the best. If introduced properly you could have 2 females together but you should be prepared in case they both have dominant personalities. In this situation they would have to be kept apart at all times. Sometimes spaying helps with the aggresion but not always. I never place 2 males in the same household. Males are very dominant and usually will not stand for another male of any breed. The only exception I have made is where the current male has already been neutered and the new puppy will be neutered as soon as they are old enough. I have a couple clients who have done this and it has worked for them.  I have also had another breeder tell me that if you bring it in as a puppy it will work. I did try this with our Petey who was extremely aggressive with other males. It worked fine until the day our Petey passed, but at this time our Ozzy was only 10 months old, so I don't know if it would have been a problem in the future.

For everyone's piece of mind I would suggest opposite sex.

Q. My puppy has developed more spots on her back. Is this normal or any way to stop this?

A. All Jack Russells have what I like to call dalmation spots on the underbelly and throughout the skin. This is normal and usually seen more when wet. However, as the Jack gets older, there is a chance that a few spots may come through on the hair or even heavy "ticking". But overall your Jack's coat should be 50% white. Here are some photos:
Please keep in mind that a puppy is like a baby. As they grow older their characteristics can change. This could include coat type and markings. It is always best to choose a puppy for it's personality and not have the mind set that I chose this puppy for it's markings or coat because you could be disappointed if it changes.

Q. My puppies ear/ears are standing up. Is this normal?

A. Prick ears- This is where your dogs ears stand straight up. This is considered a conformational flaw and there is nothing you can do about it. If this is concern for you pay attention to the sire and dam's ears beore selecting a puppy from the breeder. That will usually give you heads up of that condition, however it doesn't tell you if that condition is somewhere in the line. Sometimes it just happens.

During the time your puppy is 3 1/2-7 months of age the ears will do all sorts of funny things as this is their teething phase. Don't panic until after this phase is over. The ears may go to normal. It is very important not to mess with the ears during this time as that can also cause prick ears by breaking down the cartlidge and that will cause them to not fold properly. If you have children, make sure you let them know not to mess with the puppies ears.

Thinking of breeding?

Breeding is a risky business and is very expensive and time consuming. It is not for everyone. It should only be done for the love of the breed and wanting to preserve it. You should throughly do your research before hand and choose your breeding pairs carefully. Lots of things could go wrong, so be prepared. Here is some information to get you started:,subcat-PETS.html be sure to click on read the excerp (pdf)

If your questions were not answered here, please feel free to call me or email me with your questions. I check my mail several times a day and am home most of the time caring for my puppies and children. 910-346-3742

Since May 16, 2006

Lucky Jacks- Jack Russell Terriers

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